|  Mocha Diffusionsby Robin Hopper
 
   ocha 
              Diffusions is a little known technique of surface decoration developed 
              and used in the Southwest of England, and subsequently copied in 
              parts of North America, particularly Canada. It was only done on 
              wares of a simple functional nature, and on forms that were simple 
              in shape, such as mugs, bowl, jugs, chamber pots, etc. The name 
              has nothing to do with coffee, but is derived from the word MECCA, 
              the centre of the Moslem world, in Saudi Arabia. It is from here 
              that the finest Moss Agate Gemstones come. These gemstones show 
              the veined patterns reminiscent of trees or ferns. The slow evolution 
              by which these are formed in nature is called Dendritic Formation, 
              where acidic solutions, usually manganese have permeated between 
              layers of alkaline rock. Compression has hardened the stone into 
              a gem quality. In ceramics, the process is done in seconds, which in nature may 
              take hundreds of years. It is quite a simple process but demands 
              exact timing and viscosity control. As with the natural occurrences 
              it depends on a reaction between acid and alkali. It has to be done 
              on a leather hard pot that has not started to change colour. The 
              timing refers to the state of dryness that exists. If the pot is 
              too dry, it might well crack or split; too wet, and it might sag 
              or slump. The viscosity refers to the thickness of the slip coating 
              which is used - too thick and the acid/colour mix will not move, 
              too thin and it will run excessively.  Suitable Clays  Mocha Diffusions was traditionally done on both red and white 
              earthenware, but may be done on any clay body. Clays that have a 
              high degree of sand or grog in them are sometimes prone to cracking. 
              A clay with a high degree of Ball Clay is the most ideal.  Suitable Slips  Various slip recipes are good, the most important ingredient being 
              a high percentage of ball clay. A basic recipe which will fit most 
              bodies and which can easily be coloured with stains or various oxides 
              would be; BALL CLAY 75, KAOLIN 10, FLINT 10, FELDSPAR 5. This slip 
              is good on most clay bodies from cone 04 to 12, in any atmosphere, 
              the thickness should be like double cream, or 10 W 30 motor oil. 
             Acid/Colour Mixture  The mixture that is used to form the patterns is called Mocha Tea. 
              It was originally made by boiling tobacco leaves and forming a thick 
              sludge which was then thinned with water, and mixed with colour 
              to apply. It probably originated by pottery decorators chewing tobacco 
              while they worked, and spitting in the paint pot. However, nicotine 
              solutions are only a form of mild acid, and any form of mild acid 
              will work, such as citric acid, lemon juice, urine, or vinegar, 
              particularly natural apple cider vinegar. The mix is made by making 
              a solution of acid, mixed with colourant. Most colourants work quite 
              well, although carbonates are usually better than oxides, since 
              they are usually a lighter precipitate than oxides. Heavy oxides 
              such as copper do not work well, since the acid cannot hold the 
              colour in suspension. A ratio of about 1 heaping teaspoon of colour 
              to a quarter cup of acid is usually a good starting point, but a 
              good deal of individual testing has to be done to get things to 
              work right.  Method The leather hard pot is dipped or poured with slip. While the surface 
              is still wet, and before it has begun to lose its shine, the acid/colour 
              mix is dripped or trailed into it. It is best done using a well 
              loaded brush held just touching the slip. If the viscosity of the 
              slip, and the acid/colour mix is right then the feathering pattern 
              will take place quite naturally, as the acid eats a fern-like pathway 
              through the slip. Traditionally, the surface is coated with a clear 
              glaze, but this might cause the colour to bleed out. I prefer to 
              use the technique on high-fired wares that do not need to be glazed. 
              It is a technique that usually takes a while to get used to, but 
              can give interesting results when used sensitively. In theory it 
              should be able to be done quite easily on once- fired glazes, providing 
              that they have enough ball clay in them, but at the present time 
              I have not explored this avenue.  Many thanks to Robin Hopper for the use of this 
              text. Robin's site can be found at http://www.chosinpottery.ca. More Articles
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