|    Pit Firing
  Pit firing can be termed a 'primitive' firing technique, although 
              this is not meant in a derogatory way. The word 'traditional' can 
              certainly also be used in the case of many cultures, that were amongst 
              the first to discover this simple firing technique. It is still 
              widely used on many continents today, but it the sort of thing you 
              can easily do in your own backyard and it enjoys popularity with 
              some studio potters. 
              Early cultures found clay in the ground and must have discovered 
              its plastic and fired qualities by accident, probably discovering 
              some burnt clay in a camp fire. This very basic firing then evolved 
              into the pit-firing. Not all clays are suitable to use in such a 
              firing, especially the more refined types available from suppliers. 
              Additions of grog 'open up' the clay and make it more resistant 
              to heat shock. Clays dug directly from the earth may be suitable 
              'as is', or might profit from additions of grog or volcanic ash, 
              which also resists severe temperature differences. If using a commercial 
              clay, get a clay suitable for raku
              firings. The best color results can be achieved with iron bearing, 
              or red clays. 
              It is a good idea to bisque fire the work first, as this helps 
              to prevent shattering and cracking. Pit-fired work is usually not 
              glazed but rather burnished before the bisque, or decorated with 
              washes of black or red iron oxide, copper carbonate and mixtures 
              of these, after bisque. Color effects can also be achieved by spreading 
              oxides and carbonates around the pieces (particularly copper carbonate), 
              which volatilize and result in flashes of color appearing 
              on the fired work. Similar effects can be achieved by wrapping copper 
              wire around a pot. 
              
               
                  
              
             Depending on the amount of work to be fired, a pit of the appropriate 
              size is dug. A bed of dry leaves and twigs and possibly coal, which 
              will burn slowly, is placed at the bottom of the pit and the pottery 
              placed on top of this. The work is then covered with more leaves 
              and twigs and dung, if available, building up a mound over the pieces. 
              Once the stacking process is finished, the pile can be lit around 
              the edges and left to smolder for several hours, if not until the 
              next day. Towards the end of the burning process, it is possible 
              to bury the pit in earth or sand, which will cut off the oxygen 
              supply and create a strong reducing atmosphere inside the mound. 
              This description is not meant to be a complete instruction on 
              how to pit fire, but rather an inspiration for you to find out more 
              about the techniques involved in the process. Books on the subject 
              may help, but a workshop is even better! 
             Additional Notes on Pitfiring
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